May 28th - Casa Julia to Meson do Vento

There were at least 10 other pilgrims at 'O Meson Novo' last night, including the lady we had met in Betanzos. After a 7.30 breakfast we were returned to Casa Julia to walk the section back to Meson Novo via Bruma. The others were heading for Sigueiro.

It was 8.20 when we were left at Casa Julia and there was a cool breeze which made it easier walking. Once again we were carrying snacks and nearly 4 litres of water but this time had some left when we arrived. Good, as there is nowhere to top up along this section. Having taken photos and stopped at the old chapel we started the long climb from the bottom of the hill below Casa Julia at 8.39, past the new church of Santo Tome at Vilacoba and farms then forest, reaching the top at 9.29. A steady climb on road and track but there is a very steep scramble up a bank nearly at the top. It would help if there were about 7 or 8 steps cut into it with log facing to prevent slippage. It was fine in the dry but must be awful if wet.

Above Vizoño we sat on the seats briefly for a drink, then continued along the track before stopping again and sitting on a bank in the shade to eat our bread and sardines and a tin of peaches.

There was a mix of tracks and road again today with a lone cruceiro along the track (usually they have been in villages), another stone crossing at a stream and a donkey which was tethered at the roadside, as well as the views across the countryside.

We sat down by the stream at the albergue in Bruma to re-tie our boots and the the hospitalero arrived so we were able to have a sello too. Two Spanish pilgrims were waiting there who said that they had come from Carral having stopped there overnight. They had a different guide to ours which seemed to take a slightly different route in places. Five other pilgrims came and sat nearby waiting to go into the albergue.

We reached 'La Ruta' in Meson do Vento at 13.20 for lunch then had the afternoon at O Meson Novo - siesta, followed by washing which again was pegged very firmly to the line. Shopping in the little supermarket for water and supplies for next day then supper at Meson Novo. After supper our bags were re-packed ready for a good start in the morning. Once again there were several other pilgrims at Meson Novo and others seen heading for the hotel across the road. The route seemed to be fairly busy and we think that the albergue might have been full as 3 pilgrims came up looking for beds, as well as one, collected by Antonio, who was splitting the stage as we had done.

Hay making, Vilacoba

Top of the hill

Track

Cruceiro

Looking towards

Meson do Vento

Replacement arrow

Stream crossing

Tethered donkey

May 27th - Betanzos to Casa Julia

Only 6 other pilgrims at breakfast in the Garelos today at 7.30. We set off at 8.10, uphill with no cooling wind. This was to be the hottest day so far and we were carrying extra water, which put our packs overweight for comfort for a time.

We passed the 'pilgrim' on the hilltop, pointing the way and had a mix of road and track during the morning. At Cos we met 3 Spanish peregrinas, who we saw again several times during the day. We reached the new cafe-bar at Presedo (Meson-museo Xente no Camino)at 12.30 and had drinks (having drunk most of our water). Then we had a good menu del día, plus more water and topped up our bottles before carrying on through Leiro and to Casa Julia. The road walking was hot but there was some shaded track and at one point a stream below us, with the yellow arrow on a tree. We reached Casa Julia, which was open, at 15.30.

By then we had drunk more than another litre of our water each and had more drinks in the bar while waiting for Antonio to collect us. Passing the 3 peregrinas, who were heading for Meson Novo, Antonio gave them some bottled water. He was concerned that they had enough water for the next 5kms so went up to the main road and a bar, then took more water back to them before taking us to Meson Novo. Such thoughtfulness is what makes this place so special.

Siesta was followed by more drinks; talking to English speaking and the Spanish pilgrims while our washing dried on the line (without actually blowing away) and then a good supper. We had been so long on the road without speaking English that we were nearly speaking Spanish to one another and in some ways found it easier talking to the Spanish pilgrims than the English speaking ones we met, which felt a little odd. There were 10 other pilgrims at Meson Novo, the most we have seen apart from the big group in Betanzos.

'Pilgrim'

Country road

Woodland track

Entrance to Meson-museo
Xente no Camino

Patio Xente no Camino

Church at Leiro

Track through the trees nearing Casa Julia

May 26th - p.m. Betanzos, O Pasatempo

The O Pasatempo park was further out of town than we realised, over the river then left and past the huge supermarket. The entrance is through a childrens' play area to both the lower level and the covered walkway. We enjoyed a walk round,there are fountains, sculptures and a maze amongst other things. We found the centre of the maze (it does have 'escape' gaps) and then walked along the raised walk to look across to the town and down on the maze. It was a good way to spend a hot afternoon followed by supper in the cafe restaurant at the bridge.

Then it was time to walk back uphill to pack. There was a slight panic as our washing was not back, but it was delivered to our room about 30mins later - relief as we wanted a fairly early start next morning. Breakfast was arranged for 7.30 - and we had everything ready as we planned to leave straight afterwards.

May 26th - a.m. Betanzos

As there were at least 22 other pilgrims at breakfast we joined the second sitting, then went out sightseeing. This was a rest day!! so we left the pedometer behind.

The main plaza has some old houses and a stone arched walk, the church of San Domingo is here and opposite is the tourist office. (Just down the steps are the 'servicios' and further on down the slope is the Correos)

There are a number of other interesting buildings, including the old bankers' house (Hijos de las Nuñez/Banco de España) near the Concello (sello) and the church of Santiago. The churches of Santiago, Santa Maria and San Fransisco were all open, but none have sellos as far as we could see. The wild boar on top of the church of San Fransisco is the emblem of the Andrade family who were the overlords of this area. Returning to the main plaza the church of San Domingo was open and here we found the sello of Santiago on his horse (moved here recently). We made a return visit to Cafe Vega for lunch before siesta and then the O Pasatempo park. The statue of the brothers who created the park is in the plaza near the church of San Domingo

Plaza

San Domingo

Bankers' House, now a cafe

Church of Santiago

Church of Santiago

Church of Santa Maria

Church of San Fransisco

May 25th - Miño to Betanzos

Setting off from the O Cantiño our first stop was for breakfast in town, then to the supermarket and panaderia to collect some food for our mid-morning snack. Today was the day when we met a number of pilgrims. First were 5 Italians who we met as we were all leaving Miño. Later we met 3 others, who also overtook us, and who we saw again later in Betanzos.

As it is possible to avoid the road for a time we did so and followed the boarded walk to Ponte de Porco, with views across the ría. We then passed over the motorway which itself passes over the Rio Lambre at a height of 598mts above sea level. At the top of the hill is a picnic area which was a good place to stop and have our bread and lomo curado.

Further on the Cafe Naveda was open so we stopped for a drink and Terry tried again to contact our hotel for the night (Palacete Betanzos) without success. Phoning the tourist office he learnt that this hotel closed towards the end of 2014 and the Garelos is now the only hotel in Betanzos. With a poor phone signal he did manage to get through to them and make a reservation, but it had to be a triple room as that was all that was available. There are other places to stay but we wanted the certainty of having the 2 nights we needed so were happy to accept the triple.

This was another day with a mix of road and track through woods and villages and the hottest day so far. Our water only just held out and we needed our rehydration drink after siesta. Arriving in Betanzos at 13.30 we went to the tourist office to check where the Hotel Garelos was, then having booked in we went back to the main plaza for lunch. After siesta we organised our laundry which was sent off to be washed, then walked around town for a short time. The Garelos, another friendly place, was full - next morning there were at least 22 other pilgrims at breakfast, most of them with a large Spanish group.

Ponte de Porco

above Ponte de Lambre

Mid-morning snack

Hilltop view

An old house

Grassy track

May 24th - Cabañas to Miño

We were impressed by the service at the Hotel Iberia as we were the only guests - in a 76 room hotel. Breakfast was served earlier than normal for us (8am) so we were able to set off at 8.45 to cross the bridge and tackle the hill out of Pontedeume. This was the first morning that we had been able to set off without wearing our fleeces.

After the long slog up the hill we enjoyed the tracks today which are so much kinder to the feet. The pedometer had been showing longer distances than the guide between Ferrol and Cabañas but from here it was 'accurate' again. (We noticed this last time too). We had decided not to divert to San Miguel de Breamo so followed the signs along the main route.

In the picnic area, 3kms after Pontedeume, we stopped for a 'little something' before walking on. The track starts shortly after, under the vines, and continues for much of the way on this stage.

Yesterday a giant fir-cone had dropped onto the sand near where we were sitting, today we found several just like it and took a photo to show their size - 9.5 x 15cms (3¾ x 6 inches). Shortly afterwards we saw our first mud, easily passable.

A road section goes through the village of Viadeiro where there is a fenced playground up to the right, by the bus stop, with a fuente. We had plenty of water with us so did not check if this worked. The route then continues to a cement works before going over an ancient bridge and back onto tracks again.

Arriving in Miño (13.15) we found it was market day so the signs in the square were obscured by stalls. Following the directions given by the stallholders we reached the cafes and restaurants by the right fork not the left - useful for us. A good lunch (melon with ham, filetes and salad, then finished the melon) before we walked on past the turning for the albergue to the O Cantiño which we had booked by e-mail before leaving home.

Checking the directions we were led the last few metres by a family friend, who also called ahead to say we had arrived. The pension was opened up for us, again we were the only guests but this is small pension. A very friendly welcome and a good room with lovely hot water and also an electric radiator had we needed it. We opted for just 'bed' as breakfast would not have been until 9.00 in the cafe at this time of year.

After siesta we walked back into town, without going down to the beach, bought some supplies and supper then returned to re-pack our rucksacks ready for next morning. Another day when we have seen no other pilgrims.

May 23rd - Narón to Cabañas

After a reasonably early breakfast we set off at 9.15 taking a few photos as we walked. We have photos from our previous time on the Camino Inglés so maybe will not take so many this year.

The start of the walk was hard underfoot again with paving and tarmac, but there was also some boarded walk. This time we did take a photo of the old house dated 1792 in Neda, which we actually missed before, although we did not see the diversion to the church of St Nicolás - again. We stopped for a drink in the cafe-bar 'Camino Inglés' (formerly the Cafe Hermida) and were pleased to hear that the elderly lady, who was here 2011, still lives upstairs although she retired from the cafe last year. The Camino Ingles cafe is open on Sundays when many others on this section are closed.

In Fene we found a pasteleria at the main road and bought a huge cake each, so much so that we ate half and put the rest in our packs. Walking through the first wooded section we met, and chatted with, a couple who were back-tracking the Inglés having walked to Santiago on the Camino Portugues. The day warmed up and became fairly hot for the first time, so far we have had our fleeces on for at least part of the morning every day. The 'largest sign on the camino' on the water tank had either been moved or overgrown as we could not see it. Last time we had stopped at the motorway services but preferred to keep going as we had food and water with us. The section through the industrial area was hot and we stopped briefly for water and to rest our feet.

We enjoyed the next wooded sections,coming to the stone bridge over the stream before reaching the road again The final few kms downhill into Cabañas was hard as our feet still felt bruised at times after the paving on the coast paths. Remembering the hard climb out of Pontedeume we had booked into a hotel in Cabañas. The thinking being that we would 'warm-up' walking across the bridge into Pontedeume before tackling the hill. We reached the Hotel Iberia, where we were the only guests, and then had lunch in one of the beach side cafés. Total distance from Hotel Kensington to the Hotel Iberia 17kms.

After siesta our feet had recovered so we walked along the path under the trees towards the bridge. The little supermarket was open (Saturday afternoon) so we bought some bread and a tin of sardines for supper before walking back to sit and look at the view from the beach.

View from Neda towards Narón

The house on Paraíso dated 1792

Towards Ferrol and the Ferrol/Fene bridge

Eucalyptus woods

Wooded track and ancient stone bridge

Cabañas