May 18th - Viveiro to Espasante

Our next stage was by FEVE round the coast to Espasante. The route given showed a walk over the hills and we had decided before leaving home that this was where we would miss a section, so giving us time for the break in Viveiro. With the signing as bad as it had been in some places , distance and apparent lack of accommodation we feel this was the correct decision for us. Our hostess for the night said that the station at Espasante was well out of town and to call when we arrived there. She came herself to collect us and also insisted on taking us back next morning for the early train. So much kindness, as in all the places we have been.

Espasante is quite small with a sandy beach and sand dunes. There are flowers growing on the dunes and along the path. We enjoyed a walk there and turned back into town where there is a mix of the old (slate roofed house now a shed) and new, and we also found a bronze pig. It was a good place to stay for the night and we took the FEVE next day round to Ponte Mera and the last stage of our walk to San Andrés.

May 14th to 18th - Viveiro

We also spent time walking both to Covas, to the Os Castellos beach and the Capilla de Misericordia, and along the river path.

The walk along the river was enjoyable and we did like the locals and walked on the track at the side of the dreaded paving. The boarded section was very good and the scenery was lovely looking across the river with the eucalyptus and orchids in flower.There was also a section of good track leading to a picnic area where we had a snack before walking back into Viveiro. (11kms in all)

It was in Viveiro that I found a shell for my hat, in the enclosed convent. There was a display cabinet in which an example of each item had a number. To buy anything you rang the bell, spoke into the speaker, giving the number, and the nun put the item on an enclosed revolving tray. I put my money on in return. My little shell is very special and the shell I received in Santiago is almost identical, just larger.

In the evening we went to service in the church of Santiago and afterwards were able to ask for a sello.

With so many photos from Viveiro we will be posting a further selection when we have completed the walk to San Andrés and the Camino Inglés to Santiago itself.

May 14th - Aguadoce to Viveiro

Walking from Aguadoce on the 14th should have been easy, but again the signs disappeared. The first short walk along the side of the beach was on the minor road, then went uphill to join the main road. at a right turn there was no real sign and a passing delivery man said that it went no-where. The next, nearby road had no sign either so we stayed on the main road which winds its way into Viveiro instead of being a direct route. As we reached the petrol station our receptionist from the hotel called out and offered us a ride which we gratefully received. She took us to the bus station and we then walked up the hill, past the church of Santiago to our hotel (booked by e-mail before we left home). This gave us plenty of time to start exploring Viveiro wehere we planned to spend 4 nights before taking the FEVE to Espasante, and finally Ponte Mera to walk on to San Andrés.

We visited the old fortifications - the tower and city walls remain plus the foundations of the houses. The low gate, under the tower, leads into a street between the walls down to the church and convent of Santa Maria do Campo. Then we found Viveiro's oldest street said to be the oldest and narrowest in Spain. The other gate faces the river towards Covas and is decorated with carving

Looking towards Viveiro

Church of Santiago

Aguadoce (Esteiro)

The Hotel Aguadoce is near the beach at Aguadoce (Esteiro) and looks back up the coast towards Faro - on the route round from Xove. After siesta we backtracked the marked way for a short distance but it was once again all paving slabs so we went back and followed the waymarks towards Viveiro for a short distance to check the route ready for next day. Then we sat by the beach and enjoyed the view and the flowers on the sand dunes.

We had been warned when we arrived that there was to be a music festival that night, they had been trying to contact us the previous day, and that this would be directly under our room until about 2.00am maybe. We have to say that although we did hear some music until about midnight we did not hear much afterwards and the group were very quiet coming to their rooms. We did hear them as we all got up next morning and they took their bags out to their coach. A very considerate group of people, we could have joined in their fiesta but felt that we needed our sleep so did not accept the hotel's invitation. Much of the time the men were watching the international football in the bar, we decided, rather than playing music and dancing.

May 13th - O Castelo to Xove and Aguadoce

The owner of the Hotel O Castelo is very enthusiastic about the new pilgrim route along the coast. He says it is not yet 2 years old and so does need more work. 'His' section however had the best signing seen so far. The hotel was very good (huge tortilla in the bar for supper and a good breakfast) and reasonably priced. The online info implies that there is a fixed price for food but that is in the main restaurant. There is also alternative accomodation at the Bar Hostal Klein a few metres down the Avda Cantabrica so this junction is a good place for accomodation and food.

Walking from O Castelo to Xove was bliss - track through the woods and the best marking yet. Then a mix of road and track after the first wooded section. The signs were mostly very clear - stencilled yellow arrows. Some were the wooden nature trail posts but these also had short repeater marks so were easy to follow too. One arrow on the road was very faded, but we looked around for it as until this point all had been so good and our map showed a turn.

Reaching the church near the outskirts of Xove we followed the road sign direct route, straight on, at the cross roads, rather than the yellow markers pointing left, so went into town. The consello had a sello and after drinks in the cafe-bar we needed to head for Esteiro - our destination.

This was the end of today's walk as from Xove the route turned north and then up to the coast with no apparent facilities. We had considered walking the road to Esteiro but as the FEVE was due we decided to take that instead. Terry rescued a slow-worm sitting on the platform and put it back in the grass at the side. Arriving in Viveiro at lunchtime we had to walk downhill from the FEVE station and passed the hotel for the next night on our way (useful) then had menu del día in the bus station before taking a taxi up to Esteiro and the hotel.

May 12th - Burela to San Cibrao

We had spent some time walking around Burela the previous afternoon but having failed to find any arrows or signs at all to mark the route we left next morning by the coast path, hoping to find some signs as we went. However we never found any signing at all, just the coast path which again was paved. At one place even this looked doubtful but a helpful local said that it continued and then joined the road for a time. The option of following the path round all the headlands on the stones led us to join the coast road when we came to it. Not the most inspiring walking day and all paving or tarmac on the Estrada Marosa, with a pavement alongside.

There were views of the coast and at one point with the FEVE below us a train went past. There was also a view of a FEVE viaduct as well as some very productive gardens, full of potatoes and various vegetables.

We eventually reached San Cibrao having missed Sargadelos and Cervo, both named on our 'guide' list. We found our way through town, past the harbour and the statues behind the fishmarket, then back towards the centre looking for somewhere to eat. Asking in town we were recommended to the restaurant 'where the locals eat' where we had a very good menu del día. This was in the restaurant of a hotel I had not booked into because it was off the route!!!. The idea of walking along the main road to O Castelo, on the way to Xove, was not attractive so it was a taxi again to a very good road-house hotel. The waymarked route actually passed the corner of the car park, but we have no idea how it came here from Burela.

(Note:- This is the O Castelo on the L642 junction not the O Castelo below the Embalse)

May 11th - Foz to Burela

The day started out well following the arrows we had seen previously. However after the triple arrow sign towards Fazouro the signing was poor and after Fazouro there were no more. We assume that the intention is for walkers to follow the coast path which has reasonable signing. However this was all on the 'split' paving so not easy for walking any distance although the views were lovely and there were sea-pinks growing at the path side. This then ended taking us to a confusing set of different coloured signs at a junction but no yellow ones, so we kept right and followed our map.

Part of the route was on the road and alongside the FEVE for a short time and we also found a good bar - within sight - up a side road in Fazouro itself. A passing police car gave us a friendly hoot and a wave as we set off again. Using the map, and staying on the road, we found our way through Nois (keep right at the church) and eventually reached Cangas where we stopped for a drink and as it was nearly lunchtime took a taxi the rest of the way to Burela. It would have been hard finding the hotel on foot but the taxi took us there. We had lunch in a cafe in the centre of Burela before siesta and then a walk around town. We found some good stick rubbers in the 'ferreteria' so bought 4 for 1 euro. Two were put to immediate use as the old ones were wearing out.

Paving and sea pinks

FEVE and road

Church at Nois

Cliff top view

Beach at Burela